THE GEORGIAN ROOM

ok- ive got photo capabilities and my phone is back to normal. i am ready to help the foodies of the world expand our knowledge. pictures mean so much to me.

sea island, georgia

on days that i have a reservation at a 5 star restaurant reservation, i seem to wake up a little earlier and with a little more spring in my step. thus was the case on my recent trip to coastal Georgia. a little on the property first: this place is first rate and luxury all the way. the clientele is a who's who of the east coast. the architecture that bill jones, jr. displays shows his vision for subdued elegance in the southern US. the staff is genuine and seemed capable of doing anything for any guest at any time. we could not come up for a request that was not met, although a set of cuff-links left behind did require purchase of a new set. the service at some of the restaurants was a little slow, and some of the beach bartenders need a lot more experience. or training to get their flavors in line. 2 out of 3 pina coladas were barely drinkable. but overall this is one the the brightest spots on the east coast. wonderful piano music fills the cloister lobby some nights, and nothing soothes the soul and speaks of elegance like this instrument. i could stare at the wonderful scenery for entire afternoons. the black banks river, the atlantic ocean, and wonderful sea dunes and sea oates make up this scenery, along with the buildings themselves.

so on saturday evening of our stay, our reservation for the georgian room was at 6:30. we really wanted to eat about 7, so we asked if this would be alright, and were obliged. we sat in the lobby of the restaurant for a drink, and some relaxation with two of our 5 person party that would not be diniNg with us. i would take my 3 year old about anywhere, but not 5 star restaurants.

around 7, we told the hostess we were ready, and were led down a short hallway to the dining room. we were seated and offered a choice of waters. something then happened that i had not seen, even in all of my 5 star dinners. one waiter standing behind me heard which water we selected (evian) and started pouring as the original waitress still asked other choices for the dinner. service excelled throughout the evening with the kind of seamlessness that only comes in a restaurant of the utmost sophistication.

we decided on the 5 course tasting menu, and sat back awaiting our wine pairings to arrive. an austrian white soon arrived:lagler grumer. it paired perfectly with the lobster tortellini with warm ricotto cheese, heirloom tomatoes, and country ham bits. the complexity of the dish was something to behold. the flavors melded effortlessly in each bite taken. the lobster was as fresh as one can get this far from cold waters.

our second course was a seared scallop with sauteed radicchio, marinated citrus, and smoked foam. the plump sea scallop was very flavorful and showed that the chef could work with adversity. as the menu called for red fish, but i requested no fish for the evening. the ingredients worked well with my scallop as they also did with the red fish. this course was served with a spanish white wine.

the 3rd course was a piece of roasted quail, underneath a foie gras, with caramelized peaches and vidalia onions. this dish reminded me of one a lot like it at alex in march. the composition was here, but creativity seemed to be lacking in a dish that seems to have been passed around for a while. a french bourgogne rouge from 05 rounded out this dish with excellence.

the next cousre (4) was the consensus favorite of the table, although i have a hard time saying i had a favorite. kobe beef short ribs, parsnip puree, wild mushrooms, and a central georgia onion that was new to me. it started with ca____, and was shaped like an apricot. the beef was as tender as any ive ever had, and the puree was to die for, showing a texture that bordered creamy mashed potatoes and smooth grits. the mushrooms kind of got lost in the mix, and the onion tasted like anything but an onion. it was sweet and added some good harmony to the japanese beef. a very serious knife was provided with the dish, and a fork was all that was needed for the red meat. an italian red from the 2000 edition of a piedmont grape "rio sordo riverra" just added to the wonderful pairings. these pairings worked as well with the dishes as well as any pairing i had tried.

the dessert was a sweet potato pie with pecan crust, and a toasted marshmallow spread. you know what they say, when in rome, well when in georgia eat a southern dish. this was my favorite dish of the night, and that is usually not the case. the texture of the pie was heavenly, the the marshmallow spread was very creative. A 20 year tawney was perfect with this course.

overall, out of the 17 restaurants that meet the mobil 5 star criteria,i have been to about12. i would say this is in the bottom 2. service was there, ambiance was there, but the food lacked the creativity aspect, and something in the flavor just did not deliver the punch i should get when i go 5 star. i would eat here again, and yes, it is one of the best restaurants in the south. but it is not per se, little washington, charlie trotters, or alinea. scott crawford was in charleston while i was there, and i was very disappointed in not meeting him. would he have made the difference, who knows. definitely would not have hurt. we had some coffee and strolled back to r=the lobby. my daughter ran past with a slew of new friends from baltimore in tow. we watched them swim in the fountain and all was well with the world. AE