CHLOE & WFS

EARLY MORNING HIKE, OUTBACK FLORIDA

Fare Thee Well

Tempatures dipped to 34 last night. We had a roaring fire in one of the most serene settings we've ever camped in. Barely a sound except the rustle of palmetto and the night bird calls. We had a great dinner of leftover white chili, toasted jack cheese, avocado and green chili sandwiches. I finished with hot tea and a chocolate. WFS had a hot shower and I washed the dishes. By the time we got inside, we were both grateful for our cozy little bed & a very warm TinCan.
Yesterday we explored a radius of fifty miles. We hiked two state parks and one federal preserve. Rivers, marshes and estuaries, deep hammocks and golden sandy beaches. This was the land of native people and so pristine. We relived their lives in every hammock and midden. The Timucuan were decimated not by war, but by disease. We stood on the banks of the Tomoka River, just before it flowed into the sea, imagining a world of peace and content under the huge live oak trees.
Our next park was an old sugar plantation. This hidden jewel was so far off the grid we were fearful we were heading to no man's land. After 10 miles on sand roads we found the old ruin. Deep in the hammock, forgotten by time, we walked through the ruins knowing this whole world succeeded on the backs of slaves. A sobering moment in a beautiful setting. As we drove back through the wooded lane, we spoke of how little the world has changed.
Fortunately, we can speak out, reach out and hope.

THE REAL FLORIDA

Clouds were white and billowy as we left sweet Fernandina, Cumberland Island. As we packed our gear, some folks from upstate NY stopped for a chat, then a sweet man from Frankfort, Ky said he had to stop and ask, where in Ky? And why did we have Ky plates on the rear and New Mexico plates on the front.. At that same moment, he spied our duckies and seemed( in a friendly way) to get it! We are kitschy! Finally, we pulled out, stopping briefly for provisions and a Starbucks. We headed down the coastal highway A1A toward a State Park that heralds: The Real Florida. Clouds were thickening as we drove, at a snail's pace, down the coast. We drove off the main road across sand roads and a washed out bridge to soaring long leaf pines and the uncluttered quiet of the hammocks. As WFS set up camp, I quickly made white chili for dinner. It was very, very good about two hours later.
We donned our rain gear, as big raindrops plopped on the sand. We headed into the dense hammocks where the Timucuan Indians dwelled( many, many years ago)along the marshes. We had been hiking about 45 minutes in the rain, when I heard a rustle up ahead. A small herd of young, feral pigs dashed in front of us, scurrying into the palmetto. We could hear the sow calling them in the distance. They were incredibly fat for feral pigs, with rough graphite colored hides. We stood in the drizzle, amazed. We walked on to the salt marshes. It was still, except for birds calling and the rustle of palmetto. We soaked up the feeling of being in a very undisturbed corner of the world. Yes, it does exist, even in overrun Florida.
This morning brought high, blue skies and classical music. We ate our croissants and tupelo honey for breakfast. Between sips of coffee, we planned our wilderness day.
Shall I say, it will be an adventure? Stay tuned.

Cumberland Island

WFS & I boarded the boat around 5:00, Cap't Dave( A REAL SEA GUY)navigated past the Fernandina shrimping fleet, up the St. Mary's River. WFS found Cap't Dave very good company. He guided us through the Narrows, pass Fort Clinch( near our campsite) and around the point. Then, we turned west toward Cumberland Island, just as the sun slipped over the horizon. To say this was magnificent would be an understatement. Cap't Dave took us to the point of
Cumberland Island where the wild horses roam. He explained it isn't often you can SEE them, but he had a good feeling...We hovered the shoreline watching birds wading along the shore, the sun casting unearthly colors against the shore and sky.
suddenly, our captain said, in a near whisper, look, look...just over the dune to your left. Behold, the herd ambled into our view...slowly they ascended the dune and we gasped! Time to break out our split of champagne! We sipped our champagne, wrapped ourselves in polar fleece blankets and moved out far enough to watch the dolphins, gracefully off the prow~
Every picture tells a story, but I am not sure the photos or my words can do this evening justice.

AMELIA ISLAND

We are ensconced in our lovely camping spot under a live oak. WFS can hear the boats passing by. The sunset was absolutely amazing last night. we walked through the live oaks to the river side of the campground, just in time to watch the last shreds of light fill the sky. We stayed out as long as we could...
After dinner we watched a Japanese film, Departures, about a young cellist returning to his rural home in Japan to learn the art of preparing the dead for the last journey( a very beautiful art)...a truly compelling film.
Today is a bit overcast and we were caught in a rain shower walking to Fort Clinch...We took shelter under a canopy of trees... giggling about being caught in the rain without any rain gear..Duckie Express is filled of rain gear. A Very lazy day for WFS and I....

The Joy of Camping

Yesterday we drove into Savannah. We planned our day around brunch. Meriwether McClorey, a recent Savannah School of Design graduate, sent me her insider guide to Savannah. Our brunch at the Firefly Cafe was so good. Offbeat and funky....fresh, original food. Yummy.
We drove out to Tybee Island to find the freshest seafood available. I found grouper, light pink flesh and smelling of the salty sea. We were excited about returning to our camp, building a big roaring fire and sharing the bottle of champagne Robert gave WFS for his birthday. I should insert here, I love to gather wood. Skidaway Island was a bonanza for wood gathering! WFS protested, I have enough wood for tonight...nonetheless, I wandered off to gather wood~~~the sun was setting, the birds were gathering in the trees and the air soft and warm. How bad can that be? As the fire sparked, WFS poured a tiny plastic glass of champagne. Umum. Good. Just at that moment, a couple meandered into our campsite. John and Mary, from Milford, Connecticut, were camping nearby in their indentical airstream, Tumbleweed! WFS hastened to find two more plastic glasses and find our extra campstools. We exchanged camping and airstream tales. They checked ours out, we checked out theirs. After the champagne was consumed, they left with a promise to meet for coffee the next morning.
Hastily, I started roasting fingerling potatoes and young vidalia onions purchased at the farmer's market. While they roasted over the hot coals, I made a salad of butter lettuce and cukes. I prepared the fish for grilling, including, fresh dill butter for finishing. This meal, I must say, was a perfect example of fresh, simple food bursting with flavor. We cleaned up by the last flickers of the fire. Our warm beds were going to feel so good. And, they did.
WFS was up quite early, and in 7x11 space,,that translates to me being up quite early, as well. I bury under the covers as long as possible,
but, after WFS walks with Chloe, showers and fumbles to find coffee filters, I reluctantly greet the day. I walked down for my shower in blissfully warm morning air..
When I returned, Mary and John were walking toward our picnic table carrying hot, whole wheat pancakes and Vermont maple syrup. We had the hot coffee.
Camping is about the best of the best.... When morning brings handmade pancakes and new friends, I would speculate, it doesn't get much better.

Chattanooga

Warm night air and brilliant stars on Lookout Mountain last night. We drove into Chattanooga to meet a dear friend, Mia...she suggested a lovely Italian restaurant near the museums, overlooking the Tennessee River. We had enough time to take the river walk before dinner. Tony's was a very efficient, cozy family style restaurant. Mia brought Clyde, her ten year old and his best buddy, Ethan. Mia is an artist and a fun spirit. We hadn't seen each other in years. I ordered homemade pasta with marinara. Simple but just the way I like fresh made pasta. Mia had ravioli with gorgonzola sauce. WFS chose spinach fettucine with Italian sausage. Little guys went with penne and butter. Winners, all.
We made a short evening of it, needing to be back in the cozy nest of the TinCan.
We've traveled in dappled sunlight in shirt sleeves. Savannah is on the horizon..
Firelight, the sea and stars.

Flyte, Nashville

Getting out of Louisville yesterday was an exciting! We finally turned south and left the snow behind around Bowling Green. Nashville is chilly but a fine 15 degrees warmer than our frigid tempatures.
After a spin through Target and Toys r Us with Jaxon, a big box of legos and a cuddle, we were off to WFS's birthday dinner at Flyte. Flyte is all the buzz in Nashville. Industrial, hip and warm, all in one package. Perfectly appointed tables and the cozy, pillowed, corner banquette made a great first impression. We ordered a fantastic inexpensive South African white wine. I decided to go to the small bites portion of the menu. I really wanted to sample the flytes.
I started with a pork belly, prawn, sweet potato and mole appetizer. Generous enough to make a full course and every bite exquisite. My next course was the soup flyte. Three small tureens were a little hit and miss. The parsnip soup was silky, flavorful and left me wanting more. The wild mushroom was tepid and uninspired. The celery root silken soup burst my taste buds into a full swoon. Each soup would have benefited from heat. Note: on chilly evenings, warm those bowls and bring the soup hot!!! My final course was a salad of arugula and beets with borscht in a small tureen. This was beyond fabulous. The borscht was pure beet with undertones of a lovely homecooked beef stock. Lovely. WFS had an Asian inspired Steelhead trout, cooked to a perfect medium rare. A small pot of dashi was drizzled over the trout tableside. Jason had poussin with fresh veggies. A success of pure natural flavors standing alone.
We passed on desserts... Something about avocado pudding did not appeal to me~~
The service was impeccable and the tab was in keeping with the attention to detail and natural, organic ingredients.
If you are in Naahville, near the old red light district on Division St., fly in.

Looking for the Sun

After a long absence, I have returned to blogging our adventures. We are a chilly 25 degrees and snow is banked around the Tin Can. We will make Nashville tonight and celebrate WFS's birthday with family...We are going to a new, hip restaurant. Tomorrow, I will review the results of our dinner.
The past few months haven't been easy for me to write but I am going to dust of my keyboard and fire up my synapsis