WHAT WE SAW

THE PHOTOS BELOW ARE:
MESA VERDE
MONUMENT VALLEY
GRAND CANYON

Points of interest 2008 road trip

End of the Line

After 16 days on the road, the end of our journey is near... A mere 150 more miles and we'll be in Louisville. We camped in Caryle, Illinois last evening.... It was amazing to see so many people out camping for the weekend. We had driven 10, yes10, long hours yesterday..... The sky was moonless and dark as we set up camp... WFS went up about his chores and I fixed some dinner while we listened to the presidential debate on the radio... We needed time to unwind, so we sat by the fire for a long, long time after we finished our meal. We had a good long sleep and
a lazy last morning.
Our journey across country has consisted of 4500 miles and 94 hours of driving. (WFS loves statistics)...,
We've seen family, discovered new and exciting places, met some interesting people, ate some fabulous food, listened to hours & hours of talk radio, blogged countless hours on the iPhone.
Always hoping I would have a signal to post( sometimed not)....and most importantly just hanging out with the only other
person I have ever known who can spend all this time rattling across country with no particular place to go, the courageous, WFS~~~

One more thing!!!!

I completely left out one important detail of outlaw country... This is for Dave and Nancy( Buzzard Roost Farm)....as we returned from our walk, we saw we several buzzards, then we saw all their buddies in the distance... A few minutes later, the sky was littered with the big birds..... Swooping and diving. WFS loves all creatures and is most particularly drawn to buzzards... We sat on the log and watched them swirl. It dawned on me they might be searching for a roost. In the trees. Above our heads. Maybe we weren't quite ripe enough, they moved on...,

HOMEWARD BOUND

WFS charted a route home to avoid interstate travel, my preference. One cannot fully appreciate the great landscape of America nor the hidden corners at 80 miles an hour on a four lane highway... I always WANT to drift along, but sometimes my driver insists on a speedier avenue... Yesterday, we opted for one last day of meandering. 'Twas a good decision. We headed east on the Santa Fe trail, leading us to the Kiowa National Grasslands. Miles and miles of golden landscape. We had a roadside picnic and drove into the OK-LA-HOMA panhandle......straight into outlaw country. The lone highway led us into western Kansas, home of the Dalton Gang hideout.... Seemed like a good place to hole up for the night. We found the Meade State Park, a fairly obvious locale, but since few campers were about, we set up near the lake, in a clump of trees, behind some large logs in a faraway corner.... Great cover.
An ideal spot for desperadoes. We set up camp and headed out for a walk through the purple waves of grain. After our walk, we kindled a fire. In Santa Fe I found some fresh made tamales and roasted green chiles, I wrapped the tamales in foil and laid them by the fire. Half hour later, we feasted on tamales and chiles. And I do mean feasted. We finished our dinner with fresh fruit, a balancing act to the chiles... We kicked back by the fire as any good cowpoke would do...
As night fell, we watched the stars fill the sky and then, we decided to hit the sack.
Today we are going to see the world's largest hand dug well. Another amazing find on the blue highways...
Don't you wish you were here? We do!

La Casa Sena

Located in the Plaza, this Santa Fe gem is a great example of a Spanish hacienda. The building dates to 1867 and it is worth a stroll through the courtyard, even if you don't plan to have dinner. AE recommended this eatery... And we were very pleased with the results.... We sat under the huge cottonwood in the garden courtyard, a soft breeze ruffling the leaves and just let the night envelope us...
Our meal was good, especially when our server told us some very dear folks had prepaid our dinner... This took some serious detective work~~ this act of kindness made this evening one of the best in our memories....
Just goes to show, good things are abundant... And delightful when least expected.

Trattoria Nostrani/ La Casa Sena

As promised! We are on the road again~~~
The gardens near the entrance of Trattoria Nostrani were as inviting as the lovely interior. Dark ebony floors were polished and serene. The Nouveau-Deco offered soft banquettes, and 1950s Thonet chairs. Art was well thought out and the lighting sublime...
We were one of the first to arrive... This can be a mixed blessing, either too much attention or the look of do-these-people-not-understand civilized-dinner-hours? We had none of the above, we were offered a glass of wine while we waited for Kim & Olin, scheduled to arrive at the more appropriate dining time~~
Our server was professional to a fault. Carefully observant, non obstrusive..
The chef, Nellie, obviously does the hard work of making a meal perfect... Homemade stocks sing, vegetables are selected with care, meats and fish are mostly local, the four course menu is carefully thought out and executed with total attention to detail. I do agree, any odor might have distracted from the tantilizing
smells from her divinely inspired food, which demanded fully alert senses for sensual dining pleasure.
So, the meal.....
First course:
Squash blossoms stuffed with three cheeses
Seared foie gras with orange supremes and strawberry amaretto soup
Pumpkin soup with hazelnut mousseline ( my choice)
Escarole and shaved fennel with cucumber and red onion vinaigrette
Second course:
Gnocchi with beet reduction and gorgonzola
Taglierlini with fresh figs and black pepper
Sweet potato ravioli with sage
Third course:
Lamb loin with red wine reduction and haricot vert
Braised rabbit, deboned and wrapped around foie gras and local sausages
Fresh trout encrusted in pinion and finished with lime chili
Desserts:
Buttermilk panna cotta with lavendar creme anglaise
Hazelnut chocolate mousse with fresh raspberries
A trio of warm Italian cookies
The combination of flavors, understated excellence in presentation
blended with bursts of new and inspired revelations of what an imaginative chef
can deliver when the art of food is also the gift of love...

Santa Fe Dining

If you've been on the road for many a day, and the end of the line is the Santa Fe Trail, leading right into the center proper and you wander very near the Georgia O'Keefe Museum and you are tired and dusty and ready for a very expansive evening of food and wine and your nephew, Olin and his dear girlfriend,Kim have just moved to Santa Fe and will join you and then you have a hot shower in your condo and you have some clean clothes left and a credit card not screeching, over-limit and you are a discerning palate and you love food and you love finding a female chef and the reservation guy says we are a perfume free environment and you call AE and he says go for it! and you wonder, is it a gimmick but you head in anyway and you can't imagine how great it will be but you are willing to try and you see this entrance and you read the Gourmet Mag at the entrance and you go inside and are seated at a banquette and immediately have a chilled Verdicchio
and you live and breath to find this sort of restaurant, then you won't mind reading every mouth watering detail tomorrow when I finish having
fun in Santa Fe and I'm cooped up in the Conestoga Wagon heading east searching for the next incredible camping spot....
I will give you a nugget, Kim and I would stare at the food for 2 full minutes before we could take a bite, we just had to drink it in...this was food you don't find but once in a blue moon and the moon is on the wane~~
It was, as Kim's text said last night, divine!

Misty Morn, Pagosa Springs & Green Chile Quesadilla

Santa Fe, Coffee shop, INTERNET

After twelve days of Dan blogging my photos from Iphone email(whew)! And Luke & Laura hastily repairing my little Mac laptop and me taking a gazillion photos I couldn't download and so forth....I am here in highly civilized and Internet accessible Santa Fe...
Here are a couple of photos that catch the essence....Ruth Ann at her stove and WFS's rubber ducky collection in the window as we whizzed along the endless highways!

Pagosa Springs, Chama, Abiquiu

Last evening found us searching for a campsite near Pagosa Springs. As the stars were filling the sky,we found our spot beside the San Juan River. We met the campground host, a sprightly old gentleman, vowing to get us the best spot in the campground....if I cuddled closely while we searched on his golf cart. I did and he delivered. We settled on a green spot, under a willow. Right by the river. I put the kettle on and started the fire. WFS set up the tent. The camper/hunter next to us came over to share the fire. After a full day driving (yes, we did), we were too tired to prepare dinner. I dug out some cheese, crackers and apples. Our new friend/camper brought over his beer, WFS had some wine and I, my hot tea. We streched our weary bones by the fire and talked into the night.
The photo shows our misty morning view from my warm tent bed. Years and years ago, Dan and I went camping on a lake in back country Ky. We packed in ( about a mile) a canoe, a quilt and some grub. We made camp on a cliff high above the lake. We streched out on the ground and were in deep sleep under the stars. Suddenly, in the middle of the night, a series of cracks and pops bolted us from our sleep. The rocks we had placed around our fire were exploding in the chilly night air. After our hearts stopped pounding, we laughed like hyenas! We have referred to this as the 'SPOLDING ROCK ADVENTURE ever since that night. The next morning we canoed
across the lake into the cattails, only the two of us and the red winged blackbirds occupied that misty, magical lake.
As the old song goes, "we were so much younger then, we're older than that now."

BBQ, vortex style

AE encouraged me to blog our 'store bought' dinner while camping at Oak Creek Canyon, Sedona. We were cruising into Flagstaff, when I spied a BBQ house with about a zillion cyclists milling about... I have never met a BBQ I couldn't eat, and most likely will love. After a U Turn, WFS wheeled me to the front of the building... Seems the cyclists had NO interest in BBQ, but in the Ale House next door.... I wandered inside the(as AE says) typical BBQ décor. A very pleasant & pretty young woman guided my choices... About an hour and a half later, we were feasting beside Oak Creek. The camp host stopped in, "what are Kentuckians eating?" Beans," said me! We were, and they were delicious! I had warmed them by the fire... My pulled pork and WFS's chicken were perfect, we had two sauces and a roll of paper towels.... However, the star if the evening was the blue cheese coleslaw... Outside of my mother's kitchen and my duplicating her coleslaw, I could pass on the chopped cabbage goop... This coleslaw was fantastic... I was borrowing a bit from WFS's cup when he discovered the delectable flavors.... That was that!!! We shared some Nobilio Marlborough Savingnon Blanc.., after a spell of staring into our campfire, we fell into dreamland... The camp host said, "you'll be tooting in the tent tonight!"

Ryder Cup Weekend

wow-- that is all i can say about the ryder cup. I went 5/6 days and it blew me away. as much fun as i've had in kentucky for a long time. the food was good- steak chimichurris, pork sandwiches, and decent fries considering they are made in HUGE quantities. made a reservation for the french laundry on saturday- two months ahead of the desired date at 10 am pacific time. this is a very fun game i like to try to play at least once a year. it totally adds to the glory of dining at such a fine establishment. the only three i know that are so tight are: per se, the french laundry, and the gramercy tavern in december. what are others- i like these. i'll add a few photos of '08 and continue reminiscing on valhalla. today for lunch i had bar-b-q at ken-tex in shelbyville. the people that run the place are friends, so sometimes i forget the reason i'm going is for the bbq. these guys really know their stuff. it rivals any bbq restaurant in louisville and most in the US. i tried moonlite bbq in owensboro in the summer, and did not like it at all. they could learn a few things from the efficient and super friendly, if not sassy, counter staff. the pulled pork is what stands out. the sliced beef is a close second, but the pulled pork is perfectly composed with a perfect balance between texture and flavor. the fries are excellent when fresh, and the decor is equivalent with most bbq places, except maybe smokey bones or mark's ( which is a louisville institution now). AE

THE GRAND CANYON

After dreamy Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon, we needed a bit more rugged environment~~the North Rim of Grand Canyon. We settled in and then hit the trail. If anyone should ever doubt the awesome nature of NATURE... One should stand at the rim of the canyon and breathe deeply. There were very few people (relatively speaking) bracing the last few open days at the North Rim.., we built a nice fire, as the night sky bloomed into full magnificent diamond studded light. I made chili and we ate as a brisk wind lashed about. The night was short... We got up very early to head back east Pagosa Springs.... If time allows, I would like to soak in the hot springs until my road weary bones relax.
We'll be back to civilized and rich Santa Fe tomorrow..
We plan to camp in chilly Chama, elevation 11,288...,our little tent home will be tested.

3 from the road...

Elk tenderloin, Far View, Mesa Verde



Oak Creek Canyon



Home Sweet Home in the canyon

Mesa Verde, Sedona, Monument Valley

and everything between. We spent two days in Mesa Verde... I felt as if a lifetime might not be long enough. Ruth Ann gave us potatoes, onions and greens from her garden. By a roaring fire, we ate potato soup, grilled cheese sandwiches & a fabulous salad. The night sky, especially the milky way,was a magnificent canopy for our little tent home. We hiked the next day & ate dinner @ the Far View lodge. My elk tenderloin(photo) was perfect.
We drove and drove through Navajo country to Monument Valley. The Native Americans are getting even, tourists are wheeled into the red dust bowl of the valley at extortion prices~~~the mystical beauty intact...it is a sight to behold, we took the Conestoga Wagon into the thick of it... For free! The Navajo also make more tourists $$$$$$ at the flourishing casinos!


Last night we slept in the vortex, Oak Creek Canyon in Sedona. We didn't see UFO's nor John McCain but we did see incredibly beautiful canyons and slept right by Oak Creek with the United Nations of
Campers, almost every nation was represented. We had a fine breafast in a diner in Flagstaff, we have secured a NYT and are happily headed to the North Rim of Grand Canyon.

BLOG OF THANkS

I cannot blog any more without acknowleging and thanking my inspirations:
Cathy Loup for encouraging Dan to blog and always being a candid reader. Dan for encouraging me to blog and for posting photos along this trip and many other times. Ashley for text messaging the beginnings of P&P... The Belotta ham and Alabama peaches that kicked us into gear. Last, but never least, Luke & Laura for repairing my laptop and making the last leg a little easier. And to all you readers... Your comments keep my fingers glued to the IPhone keyboard.... To you:
Keep me posted.
SBD

DINNER @RUTH and JIM'S

After leaving B&B hell~~~~ here is the rest of the story. We drove up to the Mountain top paradise of Ruth Ann and Jim... WFS and Jim played pool in Jim's shop.... It is a recently acquired table, left behind to some folks leaving for Florida.... Yippee! The guys had a great pool game. We girls took a long walk, the sun was warm but the air crisp...a lovely combination. We returned to the cabin, stoked up the woodstove....... I went out to dig potatoes and pick the fresh greens, Ruth Ann finished her breadmaking. The plate you see is the result... We had lamb sirloin with a Ginger, parsely,mint and yogurt gremalata. Fresh potatoes with dill, lightly steamed green beans and a salad the salad god would envy. We finished our meal with pears and cheese.... By the time Ruth Ann served those perfect pears, Jim and I were deep into a Scrabble game that lasted 'til the wee hours...not any ordinary Scrabble, a fast game of wit and wiles....whew, Jim is a formidable opponent. We left for Mesa Verde with our bellies full and our heads clear..
We stopped by Luke and Laura's, the can-do team. Standing by their door with my little laptop in hand... Dozer loaded on their truck and spirits that are so connected|~~~ they can and will do with a unity that is truly one complete entity. I can, if I ever get Internet service,blog my photo of them...,
Mesa Verde was grand in scope and humbling in beauty and stillness... Yes, you can escape the tour buses and rattle of the crowds by just walking away, into the great expanse.

Green beans fresh from the Greenhouse & Salad

B&B Hell

Yesterday was such a mixed bag day....we left Ruth Ann and Jim's around noon...Jim headed out to cut wood on Boot Mountain and Ruth Ann, WFS and I went to Sagauche to see a friend and look at art. Saguache is a little artist enclave about 30 miles from the cabin. We had local cheeses, Ruth Ann's bread and wine for lunch with Kelsey. We lazed about in altitude dream land. Not a bad place to be. We had to meet Kathy and Sue for the next leg of our adventure, so we drove to Monte Vista. Luke and Laura's house, Home is a process, is located in Monte. We picked up our friends...Sue Duvall is 88 and game for anything. We drove out to the wetlands,,yes, there is a little nature preserve wetland near Monte....I was/am determined to see the sandhill cranes. I saw them in the sky, swooping over the wheat fields....their sounds are fascinating. However, as luscious as the golden ground appeared, they stayed in the sky....I WILL see them on the ground.
Home is a Process is worth a trip out west, scenery aside. Luke and Laura, a formidable team, have worked out every detail of what will be HOME. I think they should rename soon, Home is a Reality! This cozy home in the valley with the mountains ringing around every side, will be a masterful and environmental wonder. You can trust me on that. The back yard sings, even now, filled with construction debris.
We left Luke and Laura filled with the promise of what can happen in the valley...this soon was extinguished. We decided to stay in a B & B near Monte Vista...mainly for indoor plumbing and altitude adjusting for Sue and Kathy...I COULD with a book give you the awful details...., but never, no, never, stay in Aunt Gerta's aging 1960's abode passing as a B&B....I will tell you the blue carpet circa 1970 and the pink, barely working 1960"s bathroom, were bewildering to fastidious little me....HORRORS! What to do? The lady innkeeper wanted no part of our departing....we grouped in the garden and I was selected to tell the Pinocchio lie...anything to get out of there~~~~~~~~~~~~Suffice to say, it wasn't easy...this place wasn't cheap,price wise,...so, I went in to lock horns...we parted under a promise, if you don't re-rent tonight, we'll get in touch and work out 'something'...I left no forwarding address nor credit card number...Goodbye! It was a source of great amusement at dinner...We all met at the Alamosa Brew Pub...Housemade ales, Green chile guacamole burgers and hand cut local potato fries made the bad memory vanish. Our dinner was very, very good. I had a sasparillo to wash down my dinner and everyone else had beer...someone has to be responsible!
Jim and Ruth drove into the mountains, Luke and Laura to their cozy bed and we, the lost travelers, to a bed...not quite a palace, but reams better than the B&B Hell...
Tomorrow I will blog our last supper with the Christy's...Tomorrow will take us to Meas Verde....we will leave my sister,brother-in-law, nephew and niece behind.

The Christy's

GIVE ME SKY, LOTS OF SKY

Last night the tempature was 29 under a magnificent sky. Jim covered the entire garden, but some little lettuces were covered in a heavy frost this morning.
Luke,Laura and Ed came up for dinner. The woodstove was warm and the wine a good peppery red. I will tell you each detail of dinner when time allows. As for now, this respite from the road has been glorious.

New Harmony Campground & a Walk Along the Wabash:

OH, BURY ME ON THE LONE PRAIRIE

THE WILD WEST ISN'T NEARLY AS WILD AS THE EAST, CURRENTLY...... A
BIG TREE IS LYING ACROSS OUR YARD IN LOUISVILLE. THE CRITTERS ARE FINE, BUT MY PRECIOUS PLANTS ARE CRUSHED.

After leaving blustery Kansas,we arrived in Las Animas, CO...Commanche Country. We drove along the rim of the John Martin Reservoir just as the sun was setting in the west and the full, ripe moon was rising in the east. Orange, gold and a shade of blue not on the color wheel lit up the sky......This is the kind of sunset you can only see in the mountains or by the sea. WE drove along the top of the dam, stopping to take in the beauty of it all. We couldn't linger, we had to make it to the base of the dam before the sky darkened. The campground was one of the coolest we've ever been fortunate enough to find. WFS immediately began to set up camp, while I went to search for campfire wood. I found more than enough wood for a crackling fire. We even left wood for the next lucky campers. I, however, had to go over 1/3 of a mile to scratch up wood.
I made a cheese and chile omelet for dinner~~~~~~~~~fire warmed tortillas and ultimate salsa(thanks to some teenagers in the Dodge City market). While WFS heated the water and cleaned the dishes, I sipped hot chamomile tea by the roaring fire. We slept the sleep of the blessed and awakened to a brilliant blue sky.

We drove about thirty miles to Lamar,Colorado. A brightly colored little building on a side street was the only signal we needed to stop and go inside. What a siren song for me! The smell of chiles and beans filled the entrance. The posole was to die for. A thick stew of pork, hominy and chiles, too mouth watering to believe. The pinto beans reminded me of Cebah's. This brings me to a point, simple food, perfectly prepared, is nourishment fit for kings or queens. Hands down, you can't beat it! A sopaipilla with local honey finished our meal. It was time to hit the dusty trail. We drove through La Veta Pass, elevation, 14,480. The last time I came through the pass, snow was up to my knees.
We are off to La Garita tonight with Ruth and Jim. It should be fun reporting the food prepared by two Dutton girls at the woodstove, small drink of wine at 9200 feet above sea level..

Pictures

just a few pictures to post today. the top one is a cheeseburger i had in april at the golf course of the wynn las vegas. it was not as good as it looks, but what a fabulous picture it turned out to be. the photo could still conjure memories of the numerous times we have enjoyed on the most american dishes there ever will be. whether it be in the backyard or at the '21' club.

the second photo is the belotta ham we ordered from la tienda in virginia. it is how sarah showed her genius and named this club. we are not a website, we are a group of friends sharing our love of food. but we ARE trading ideas. AE

KANSAS CITY HERE WE COME

Dorothy! Dorothy! It's Hurricane Ike!
After seeing more than a dozen cars wrecked on the side of the road and driving over two hours in blowing rain, we thought it might not be wise to build our nest on the prairie....so, Kansas City! We'd never actually been to Kansas City, so we found a neat downtown hotel, the Phillips. The wind and rain came and went all through the night..... We rather liked our cozy digs on the 14th floor, looking out at the pidgeons hunkering down on a ledge across the street. Even pidgeons needed to find shelter last night!
Today it is blustery, 58••and starting to clear. The Tallgrass Prairie and the Flint Hills are the last points of interest we'll explore in Kansas. We plan on making it across the border into Colorado for a chilly night camping under the stars~

Giant City State Park

Yesterday after sleeping in our tent with a soft rain( and a quick scurry by WFS to secure the rain fly), we awoke to a beautiful morning. My coffee was delivered promptly...very nice! We decided to drive 15 miles to the banks of the Ohio River. There was a reenactment of Abe Lincoln's flatboat trip down to New Orleans. This was launch day of the trip, so, we thought it a worthy side trip. It was hokey enough to capture our attention. The beauty of a very small town is everyone comes out to celebrate.
We drove back to New Harmony to see it in daylight. We walked along the banks of the Wabash, up through a little glen and onto Main Street. Each home had a garden, filled with flowers and plants. New Harmony has many gardens for touring. Labryrinths, contemplative and spiritual. No matter the mood when entering, the New Age groove of peace settles in. We split a chicken salad sandwich and a latte at the local coffee shop. It was hippie like and very, very
friendly. We managed to drive about 150 miles to Giant City SP....The Markanda sandstone is around 200 million years old(yes, we CAN believe it). Names are carved in the stones from before the
Civil War. An impressive stone fort wall runs along a bluff, this was the work of the native people, who inhabited this area between A.D.400 and 900. We took a hike into the craggy area, exploring a small cave dwelling. I will dream of my woodland ancestors tonight.
We are traveling along the edge of the Ozarks and the mighty Mississippi, heading toward Kansas City; with a little luck and some serious driving, we'll find the Great Prairie Grasslands for our bed tonight~~<

New Harmonie

Last night we crawled in our tent bed after a scrumptious dinner at the Red Geranium in New Harmony, IN. Yes, there are two spellings. The little hamlet(New Harmony)and the folks that came here to build Utopia(New Harmonies). WFS would agree....after we finished dinner, we walked in moonlight through the village. No glaring street lamps here. We strolled along past quaint houses and lush gardens. We found ourselves in front of a roofless church. We have photos but currently no capability to download. It was so beautiful in the cool night air. As we stood in complete awe, a flapping of wings came directly over our heads~~~~ this cannot be fabricated, a great blue heron squawked and flapped his way across the roofless church, heading toward the Wabash River a few hundred feet away. We completely explored this magical place in the darkness. Today we'll see it in bright Indiana sunlight.

MELILLO'S LASAGNA

time to publish some photos from the backlog. this dish is as good as it is big. wow. talk about not needing an appetizer!

Camping, WFS and ME!

It is late, but we have Orca II packed and ready to roll, tomorrow~~~~~sometime. We still have many, many (hours, actually)last minute details. I confess, here among all of you, that we do not travel like anyone else I have ever met, or even heard of. My oldest son shakes his head in deep perplexity, when will you get there? Here's the deal..... we stop frequently, travel very short distances and really don't care if we ever get there. When I told WFS we could get back from Santa Fe in two days, he laughed and said, "Honey, you can't get to Ohio in two days!" When will we get there? I will blog along and keep you posted. With us,it is never the end of the journey, it is the adventure getting there.
We've decided on New Harmony, Indiana for our first campsite. Harmonie State Park. This time tomorrow night I will be sipping a cup of tea by a fire, in the woods. We are giving ourselves a treat tomorrow evening. We'll be dining at The Geranium Restaurant @ New Harmony Inn.
Review to follow.

Westward, Ho!

I am in the hyper mode of getting everything ready for an extended trip across America.
We sort of, maybe, have a game plan.
It will be something like this:
New Harmony, IN or Nashville, TN, first day/night.
Shawnee National Forest, Friday night
Kansas, Saturday night...okay, I know...you think, Kansas? Here's the logic.
The last encampment of the Native Americans, who driven east by various sources of encroachment, built their last fort in Kansas. You drive about 45 miles through corn fields...miles and miles on a dirt road as flat as a pancake...and then the topography changes, a rocky outcropping and a ravine....down at the bottom is the campground, along a lush little creek bed.
Nirvana!
Sunday night will take us near Colorado.
Monday night we'll make it to Colorado...we are staying one night with Ruth Ann and Jim in their cabin @ 9500 feet. Acclimation!
Then onto Mesa Verde, Sedona, the North Rim of Grand Canyon and finally, Santa Fe....
I will blog and log every detail~I am so happy to have my little camera and a blog site....think home movies!
My first post will be tonight, showing the Conestoga Wagon being loaded. Bill dubbed our old Suburban the Conestoga Wagon...outfitted for the long haul. We, shall we say, do not travel lightly.
Stay tuned.

THE GEORGIAN ROOM

ok- ive got photo capabilities and my phone is back to normal. i am ready to help the foodies of the world expand our knowledge. pictures mean so much to me.

sea island, georgia

on days that i have a reservation at a 5 star restaurant reservation, i seem to wake up a little earlier and with a little more spring in my step. thus was the case on my recent trip to coastal Georgia. a little on the property first: this place is first rate and luxury all the way. the clientele is a who's who of the east coast. the architecture that bill jones, jr. displays shows his vision for subdued elegance in the southern US. the staff is genuine and seemed capable of doing anything for any guest at any time. we could not come up for a request that was not met, although a set of cuff-links left behind did require purchase of a new set. the service at some of the restaurants was a little slow, and some of the beach bartenders need a lot more experience. or training to get their flavors in line. 2 out of 3 pina coladas were barely drinkable. but overall this is one the the brightest spots on the east coast. wonderful piano music fills the cloister lobby some nights, and nothing soothes the soul and speaks of elegance like this instrument. i could stare at the wonderful scenery for entire afternoons. the black banks river, the atlantic ocean, and wonderful sea dunes and sea oates make up this scenery, along with the buildings themselves.

so on saturday evening of our stay, our reservation for the georgian room was at 6:30. we really wanted to eat about 7, so we asked if this would be alright, and were obliged. we sat in the lobby of the restaurant for a drink, and some relaxation with two of our 5 person party that would not be diniNg with us. i would take my 3 year old about anywhere, but not 5 star restaurants.

around 7, we told the hostess we were ready, and were led down a short hallway to the dining room. we were seated and offered a choice of waters. something then happened that i had not seen, even in all of my 5 star dinners. one waiter standing behind me heard which water we selected (evian) and started pouring as the original waitress still asked other choices for the dinner. service excelled throughout the evening with the kind of seamlessness that only comes in a restaurant of the utmost sophistication.

we decided on the 5 course tasting menu, and sat back awaiting our wine pairings to arrive. an austrian white soon arrived:lagler grumer. it paired perfectly with the lobster tortellini with warm ricotto cheese, heirloom tomatoes, and country ham bits. the complexity of the dish was something to behold. the flavors melded effortlessly in each bite taken. the lobster was as fresh as one can get this far from cold waters.

our second course was a seared scallop with sauteed radicchio, marinated citrus, and smoked foam. the plump sea scallop was very flavorful and showed that the chef could work with adversity. as the menu called for red fish, but i requested no fish for the evening. the ingredients worked well with my scallop as they also did with the red fish. this course was served with a spanish white wine.

the 3rd course was a piece of roasted quail, underneath a foie gras, with caramelized peaches and vidalia onions. this dish reminded me of one a lot like it at alex in march. the composition was here, but creativity seemed to be lacking in a dish that seems to have been passed around for a while. a french bourgogne rouge from 05 rounded out this dish with excellence.

the next cousre (4) was the consensus favorite of the table, although i have a hard time saying i had a favorite. kobe beef short ribs, parsnip puree, wild mushrooms, and a central georgia onion that was new to me. it started with ca____, and was shaped like an apricot. the beef was as tender as any ive ever had, and the puree was to die for, showing a texture that bordered creamy mashed potatoes and smooth grits. the mushrooms kind of got lost in the mix, and the onion tasted like anything but an onion. it was sweet and added some good harmony to the japanese beef. a very serious knife was provided with the dish, and a fork was all that was needed for the red meat. an italian red from the 2000 edition of a piedmont grape "rio sordo riverra" just added to the wonderful pairings. these pairings worked as well with the dishes as well as any pairing i had tried.

the dessert was a sweet potato pie with pecan crust, and a toasted marshmallow spread. you know what they say, when in rome, well when in georgia eat a southern dish. this was my favorite dish of the night, and that is usually not the case. the texture of the pie was heavenly, the the marshmallow spread was very creative. A 20 year tawney was perfect with this course.

overall, out of the 17 restaurants that meet the mobil 5 star criteria,i have been to about12. i would say this is in the bottom 2. service was there, ambiance was there, but the food lacked the creativity aspect, and something in the flavor just did not deliver the punch i should get when i go 5 star. i would eat here again, and yes, it is one of the best restaurants in the south. but it is not per se, little washington, charlie trotters, or alinea. scott crawford was in charleston while i was there, and i was very disappointed in not meeting him. would he have made the difference, who knows. definitely would not have hurt. we had some coffee and strolled back to r=the lobby. my daughter ran past with a slew of new friends from baltimore in tow. we watched them swim in the fountain and all was well with the world. AE

BAD START TO THE WEEK

no excuses here, but i will talk about sea island and the georgian room tomorrow. my iphone lost its memory yesterday. i was devastated. i think am going out to dinner tonight. i will leave everyone with one thought- my good buddy matthew antonovich always used to say "never trust a skinny chef". i love it. he was the chef of casa grisanti for the glory years and was spectacular in the kitchen. could one say the same about a food critic........? AE

Napa River Grill

After a week of planning, cleaning and carrying out Brunch 2008, WFS and I needed a little down time. After the hoopla was over, the doorbell rang...I went to the front door and to my surprise a very wild eyed woman was standing on our front porch..I need a phone, I've had four, I don't know where I left them, came her rapid fire staccato voice. Poor thing! She was normal enough looking, but obviously suffering. She said her husband was an unfaithful man.....she told me the lord would bless me if I only would let her use the phone. This kind of activity just doesn't happen in our neighborhood. WFS appeared and saved the day, isn't that the way it always is? The story is a bit longer, but you get the point, I am sure.

After that, ummmmm, exciting moment, WFS said, we need to go somewhere and relax! AE and I have been plotting for a few weeks to visit the new Napa River Grill location. Recently, Napa relocated in the new Westport Village. We wanted to sit outside, but the patio was filled. We were told at least an hour's wait. We were taken inside but before we could settle in, our hostess reappeared and said, someone had just left, she could seat us outside. This was a very good gesture by the front of the house. The menu's the same, the ambiance much the same and the outdoor seating as good as it gets in Louisville. It's a dependable, if not exciting menu. Having prepared food all day, I wasn't terribly interested in eating. I can, however, always go for a iceberg wedge. Napa does a good one. They serve a little black iron skillet of adequate cornbread and soft butter. I was scarfing this down......suddenly, I had a giggle moment. Cebah would say it wasn't fit to feed to the dogs! This loosely means it is a dry, cake type cornbread. I did eat a few more nibbles, but it is hard to eat ANY cornbread after you've had Cebah's. WFS had a rib eye, scalloped potatoes and a medley of veggies~this was quite good. I helped myself. Our tab was reasonable, the night air cool and refreshing. With no dishes to clean, Napa River Grill made a great Sunday night selection. I am saving the real review for Pig and Peaches official visit. Hopefully, coming soon.

I went to a garden party

BRUNCH 2008

Centerpiece by Cynthia

Sunday Morning Brunch Hosts

This weekend was one that you dream about, weather was great, friends from all over visiting Louisville, Emily and Kevin marrying in the late afternoon sun at Gardencourt, and the finale, Sunday brunch at our house. Dan and my Mom were the only thing that kept this from being about the best weekend, ever. The journey to our house was aborted around Waynesburg, the new puppy decided he wasn't in the mood for car travel....Chole and Perro wanted to meet him but another time~~~The hosts had to scramble to fill in for Dan's artistic talents in melon carvings and food arranging. As you will see, we survived and brought forth an absolutely magnificent day. The bride and groom were bright eyed and blissful. The guest started arrivng around ten...we( the hosts) had a little time BEFORE the guests arrived to eat the top off the tower of Krispy Kremes. We all decided no brunch allowed with out the Krispy Kreme tower. You, dear readers, will have to imagine those warm, fat laden donuts towering in front of the rose bush. They were consumed too quickly for photography. Cynthia Yeager,came all the way form Knoxville to make the most stunning centerpieces for our table. Mike and Kristi, from Portland, brought two lovely children and a bountiful amount of energy for shopping, lifting, hauling and food styling. Jane and Dan, bedrock. They have one of the most important events of their lives tomorrow, Dan will be vested as the newest Supreme Court Justice of Kentucky. The ceremony is tomorrow in Frankfort. We beamed with pride to just KNOW them....busy as their schedules are, they were here, putting together ham and biscuits in the early morning light....The two Bill's wandered away for hunting and gathering, they returned with Starbucks coffee and four dozen Krispy Kremes. Just in time!
Mark Thompson was invaluable, he brought tables from his conference room,he and Mike ran, literally ran, at the last possible minute to Ballou's rental for some extra chairs when the guest numbers swelled beyond our seating capacity. And speaking of numbers, Mark was appointed official secretary of BRUNCH 2008. We had no budget, a strict game plan and five couples ready to execute the details....... the only detail left was: how to decipher the numbers game. Mark, Mark, Mark!!! What can we say? He adjusted his visor, sharpened his pencil and gave us the final tally. It was the easiest check writing in history. That brings us to Marizey. Brainchild of BRUNCH 2008. She is hostess with the mostest. She single handedly brought the whole party into focus.
Our menu was exciting and other than black, billowing clouds of smoke filling the kitchen, we had nary a hitch. The smoke was a tribute to Julia Child, there are NO mistakes in the kitchen. Our quiches, ham and biscuits, cheese and fruits plates, Mimosas and donuts were great....the guests: the very, very best.
Sara and Charlie were so proud of Emily and Kevin, plus, having family and friends to commemorate the weekend ~~~~~ The talented musicians playing in the background and the stunning September sky made it a morning to remember.

211 Clover

We had brunch last Sunday at 211 Clover. It is truly one of the very best places to eat and relax on Sunday~~~~~if you are in the mood to be a little dressy and very sedate. The food is perfect. I had a fresh spinach and Kenny's white cheddar omelet with oven roasted tomatoes and Wisenberger grits. The tantalizing memories linger, still.
Our date card is fully punched this entire weekend. Wedding, wedding and more wedding. Close, dear friends from all over the US are in town this weekend. WFS and myself, aided by four other couples, will host an after-the-wedding brunch in our garden on Sunday morning. I will keep you posted on the fun and flavors~~~We have an old timey musical trio playing, flowers are blooming and our friends~ some coming from as far away as Canada!!!! We have a splendid menu planned. We are doing a French theme brunch, the newlyweds are going to Paris, so we thought a bon voyage might be appropriate. I think going to Paris might be the best thing lovers can do. Would be for me.
I feel dreamy land coming forth~~~~~~~

WEEKEND

what sounds good this weekend?

son of a sailor

211 clover lane

rivue

primo

pig city bbq

greyfield inn

have you ever seen the movie somewhere in time? christopher reeves goes back in time in the grand hotel in mackinac island to the turn of the century, falls in love, etc. great flick-but i did a little time travel myself one week ago today. to travel in time, ordinary transportation is a no-no. no conventional vehicles here- we went by ferry, the lucy b. ferguson, a beautiful wood boat that was fabulous. cumberland island, georgia was the destination for our excursion on a very hot, late august day. the island was first inhabited by andrew carnegie's brother, and then given to his daughter, lucy. lucy is deceased, but her many grandchildren currently run the inn and restaurant. as we took the 40 minute ferry ride to the island, from fernandina beach, florida , we started feeling the years roll backwards. we could tell we were going to a special place. the wild horses playing in the surf and the late afternoon sun filtering through the spanish moss on all of the beautiful live oak trees further solidified this notion.

once at the dock, we were met by a very cheery woman named emily. she was happy to lead us up the path to the beautiful 4 story inn with a front porch that is truly the focal point of the establishment. (it reminded me of that grand hotel in michigan, but not quite as large- the UP version even spawned a wonderful beer- big porch ale.) as we crossed the threshold to the 106 year old structure, the transformation was complete. we were in the 1900's. the windows were all open to let the georgia sea breeze blow through the well- crafted screens. we were first led to a sitting room where a fresh made cilantro guacamole was served with tortilla chips. next to this tray were four beautiful trout fillets with cream cheese, capers, finely chopped onions, and butterfly crackers. both hors d'ouvres were fabulous. i had been travelling literally, ALL DAY, so i was hungry. so hungry i took a plate of guacamole with me on our tour of the mansion. a library, the back kitchen, a gift shop, and the bar were viewed, and all led to the intimate feeling given by a by-gone era.

after the tour, we were given an hour of free time before the "dinner bell". we visited the bar for some wild horse chardonnay, and an atlanta brewed sweetwater georgia brown. off to the porch to enjoy our libations we went. we took three rocking chairs near the steps, for we knew we would be exploring the grounds shortly. we enjoyed the beautiful grounds as some of the 150 wild horses grazed on the large front lawn. this same front lawn saw john f kennedy jr.'s wedding reception a few years back. this made the place so popular for weddings, they had to limit the number of wedings to 8 a year. we walked between the brick pillars of a pergalo that led to another structure, and the slight overgrowth added more fuel to the time travel fire. one last walk for some photos of the sea framed by spanish moss, and it was time for dinner.

we went downstairs to the intimate dining room and were seated at beautiful wood table. i usually pay no attention to what kind of table i'm eating at. but this one i did. perfect size, natural wood, and sturdy describe this table. our first course was a corn pudding with sweet red peppers atop. the circular shaped dish was excellent. just enough egg to keep it all together, and very fresh corn rounded a spectacular flavor treat. there was also some long grain bread with a sweet butter. im glad there was not any more butter on the table, because i would have filled up on bread.

the main course showed me that, yes, i was not just in awe of my surroundings, this chef knew his stuff. a meaty, bone-in pork chop arrived atop peas and rice (as they say in the bahamas), and a brownish red roux that only enhanced to the flavor. the tenderness and especially the "juiceyness" of the chop is what made this dish. i don't order pork chops out very often, but i'll say this was the best piece of pork i have ever put in my mouth. words can't convey in this box how good the chop was, so i won't try.

for dessert, we were served a raspberry chocolate cream roll. fresh raspberries on the side. it was good, my parents loved it, but i thought it was middle of the road. it didn't matter, i was sold, this place is special. i breathe history, so i was in love. much the way i love cities. they evolve, and you grow with them, and I fall in love. san francisco, new york, dallas, santa fe. i could go on all day about my black book.

as we were wrapping up dinner, we said good-bye to our new friends from lexington, made a few purchases at the shop from mary ferguson, who along with the captain of the boat that brought us over were the two fergusons i met on the visit. thats what it felt like,a visit with friends at their summer home. every member of the staff i came in contact with while AT the inn were some of the most genial people you could meet. that is what you get in the south. a place that i hold as dear to my heart as any. something about the "genteelity" of our people. and yes. kentucky is a southern state in my eyes. we left on a faster fishing boat for our return trip. the captain was cool, and an evening lightening storm rounded out the experience and prepared me to come back to the present time and make the 1 hour 10 minute drive back to sea island. another wonderful property that will get its day very soon. ****stars excellent worth the trip any day of the year. AE

Waterlily

Last night we went to 21C. Our old friend(and Dan's) Julius Friedman had an art opening for his new work, Images and Ideas. A stunning book of photography, I must say. We arrived timely, greeted by friends abundant. Daniel Mayes was the first friend I recognized. Laura Lee and Steve could not have been more gracious. They send greetings to you brother, Dan! Steve took a moment to show us a private compilation of photos Julius did over a year at their farm. Julius captured the essence of a beautiful farm on the banks of the Ohio and the eclectic world of Laura Lee and Steve. The crowd was overflowing. Yeah, Julius! We left a little early and drove over to our favorite little pub, Jack's. One must strive for balance and this was a perfect way to end our day. A burger,fries and Dean's Nacho's at Jack's always makes the struggle of artistic achievement or just a merely over-wrought day seem much more tolerable.
I came home and peeled off my 1950's dress and headed out to look at my moon flowers~~~to my amazement, on the way, I saw a water lily bud. I dashed out first thing this morning to see if it was true! Yes! A yellow water lily, just beginning to open. After a cup of coffee and the NYT, I got my little camera and revisited the water lily. She's a beauty,as you can see. I am dedicating this blog and the water lily to Dan. He inspired to to blog, he inspires me to see and write, write and see. He just plain inspires me and always says, "write, you should write"...now, hopefully, he'll say, you SHOULD take photos......His water lilies are sunk under a dried out pond, so this little yellow one is for him~~~~~

MOONFLOWER AT MIDNIGHT

Spider on orchid

this pleasant little spider(cleverly disguised with the same color) was clinging to my orchid. I found her so cute...she probably is having babies and they will be nourished on my blossoms...but hey, a little something for everyone...Nature provides.

Holiday weekend

While my writing partner was experiencing the food and adventure of low country, we spent Labor Day weekend laboring. Not all the time, save the violins~~~but certainly, we caught up on many of the unfinished chores and projects that lurked around every corner. Yesterday it was hot and dry. One of those late summer days I love. Folks around me do not share my enthusiasm for late summer heat blasts. Our next door neighbors had a very exciting weekend. They welcomed their fifth child, a little girl, Phoebe!
As the day began to wind down, we decided to go to the bookstore for a little respite. After we left the bookstore, it seemed as if cooking might be a little more work than I needed to do on a holiday. Where to go? What is open? We found Havana Rumba open and drifted inside. This Cuban restaurant was bight, cheery and certainly bustling! Havana Rumba had a rumba singer that made me want to dance~~~~~~It is rare for me, generally speaking, to like a singer with canned music. When I hear a singer with canned music, I run like it's a bad Elvis revue show. This guy was cool and a terrific singer. He enhanced the canned music with some stunning Maraca moves.
We were seated immediately...this was a good thing because within 10 minutes, Havana Rumba was packed. Our server was knowledgeable, pretty and eager to get us started on the evening. She suggested I have a Hemingway Daiquiri, this was described as a rum, grapefruit, lime and sugarcane daiquiri. WFS ordered white wine. My drink was...hummmmmmmm. interesting. Cool and tart, not so icy... after a few sips, it had the distinct flavor of Donald Duck grapefruit juice. This wasn't entirely a BAD taste, just one I am not sure where or how I honed....
My eyes were too busy cruising the menu to be bothered much by a drink. The menu is Cuban, the real deal.... a fusion of Caribbean and Spanish foods, with an interesting twist. I decided on a a beef dish named Vaca Frita~~~~~ shredded beef with peppers, onions, garlic and lime juice, served with black beans and rice and sweet plantains. It was a hearty plate but visually very inviting. My taste buds were squealing with just one bite. This dish reminded me of all that is good about plain, solid, home style foods. No matter the origin. WFS ordered a tower of seafood, Tapeo Marino.. His dish came from the Tapas menu. The Tapeo Marino was three plates set in a stainless plate tower...The lower tier was Shrimp prepared in olive oil and garlic, tasting much like an escargot preparation...the shrimp were perfect and this dish very caliente! The middle tier was calamari, served lightly breaded and in a sweet, hot sauce. The top tier was ceviche, an icy cocktail glass was filled with shrimp in lime juice with fresh salsa. Our server brought extra warm bread for sopping up the hot liquid from the lower tier dish. This combiantion was a complete winner. We had no intention of having such a large dinner but the food was irresistible. We ate and we ate. Our bill came to $51.45, I left our server a generous tip but our time at Havana Rumba was finished. The line was back out the door, time to relinquish our table.

Jacob B. Waletzky Award

My son, Dr. RC Pierce, received the most prestigious award for his work in neuroscience this year.
This photo says it all~~~~ a prince. I couldn't let another day go by without acknowledging his accomplishments.
Off to PENN! We'll be blogging Philadelphia soon.